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Post 16 cva ready reckoner betting

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It always, always, always, makes sense to shop the line. Maybe it saves you a dollar here, makes you a dollar there. Those dollars add up, and can even be the difference between a profitable year and a not-profitable year. Your decision-making capabilities are not what they normally are. Public loves to bet the favorites, and they love to be the overs. I guess it makes sense: Who wants to root for an under? We want to see points!

And favorites are favored for a reason: They are subjectively, and often objectively, the better team. So what to do? Maybe you have a lean one way or another, if so, go for it, have fun. Two offensive-minded teams. Well, what happens if the Hawks are keeping up their end of the bargain — and then some — and put up 65 first half points.

But the Nets are struggling. Kevin Durant banged knees with Kyrie Irving, and the squad has only managed 40 first half points. Both teams might be playing reserves in the fourth quarter, and the final comes in somewhere in the range. Insert sad trombone. Of course, this cuts both ways. There goes the under. Steam is ethereal in nature, right? Just run and bet the Colts, right?

Not so fast. If this causes your brain to swim a bit, no worries: But always keep in mind the sharps and syndicates are betting numbers, not teams. Sports betting for most is a hobby or entertainment that tests your knowledge — as opposed to a reliable source of income. Many beginners believe basic or even advanced knowledge of sports alone will make them a successful sports bettor. Being an expert in any one sport is certainly going to help, and can be a real benefit when looking at player prop bets, but remember they play the game because anything can — and often will — happen.

To be clear: The best sports bettors are losing about 45 percent of the time. So when you lose — and you will lose — you have to remember that you are not alone. Just simply recognizing that the top guns in this space are losing, figure, nine out of every 20 times should give you peace of mind, and help you avoid the dreaded tilt.

I used a peep sight with a hooded front sight. No sabots or pellets or scopes allowed in Colorado. I got my groups down to 3 inches at yards with old eyes and no scope. I shot a rough scored six point bull at 75 yards downhill after eight days of hard hunting. The primers put a residue in the flash hole that does not come out with soaking. My motto is get close to those animals. People who shoot those long range shots are only taking a chance on wounding those beautiful animals.

I set my longest range at yards and passed on more than one bull that was not inside that. Happy Trails Guys. He told me to try this combo and use bore butter on the bullet every shot, try Barnes spit-fire 50 cal.

I thoroughly cleaned the beach every other shot. But picked the center clear between all of the later shots, when the groups would not cone together. I also tried the great plains gr bullets. Those left shavings of lead in my barrel, so your info makes a lot if sense. After two shots of those I was done with them. I will clean the breach each shot. I will probably try the smaller grain bullet weight and start at 90gr of powder, unless you have other thoughts. Thanks again. My gun does not like Power Belts, but many people swear by them.

They are also not good at staying together on impact, but you also have to give them a try until you find something that is legal in Colorado and that your gun can shoot accurately. I guess the last resort is to trade that gun in for another that will shoot large conical bullets. Hello, The best advice I got was to shoot loads under grains. My first flintlock was a Deerslayer.

I found it shot best with Hornady round ball and 75 grains of 3F. I also used 3F in the pan because no matter how carefully I carried the weapon, the finer powders always fell out of the pan. I have been told the coarse powder would ignite slower but the deer never noticed it. Thanks Chas. How can you tell if your cheek is in the same place when shooting a scope?

Try to bring the gun into firing position with your eyes closed, then open your eyes and see if your eye is properly spaced behind the scope and centered in the scope. If not, you will have an inconsistent cheek weld. Not all the black on one side or the top. The main problem of inconsistent cheek weld is like inconsistent shoulder pressure. The bullet will come out slightly different each time. Some people put tape, cut notches or wrap something around the stock so they have a consistent cheek weld.

But I suspect if you are shooting muzzleloader your problem is more likely to be inconsistent cleaning and lubrication. Or perhaps you have a habit of flinching or jerking the trigger. My book should help with those issues. I just purchased a. At 25 yards a. Can I bring up the impact point by adding 5 more grains of powder?

Or do I need to file down the front sight? Before filling down the front sight, see if your gun shoots a 0. I will be hunting squirrels, rabbits, and grouse. That is the distance that I can get to them, when I am hunting them, I use a. That is why I purchased the. I thank you for getting back to me with the answer. I read that a 45 grain,.

Obviously, the round lead ball looses velocity and energy faster than the elongated. Yes 4 foot. I have gone to iron sights. Rear sight now all the way back. Are there any bad guns out there? Yes Scott, some guns can be bad. Each barrel has to be treated as an individual. But something is also wrong with your scope or the way it was set up. No way shots with a scope should be 4 foot low, but iron sights are able to make 8 inch groups.

If you have plenty of muzzleloader experience and have been able to accurately shoot other muzzleloaders, I say contact TC and have them check the gun. If this is your 1st muzzleloader, I suggest getting help from someone to see if they have the same problems you are having. Well, I am now the new guy and looking to buy my first muzzleloader. My thoughts are that I want one for all the states I plan to hunt western states , for Elk, deer, bear and pig.

The state laws are varied but it appears the lowest common issues are as follows: 1. Must be. Must use black powder or a substitute no smokeless powder. Iron sights but fiber optic is O. It must only be able to be loaded from the muzzle. Does that mean it can not have a breach block? There are others but these are the significant ones. I would like to maximize accuracy, range, corrosion protection and minimize weight. Where do I start? Bad bull is nice but not legal.

Knight looks good but which one? And is it the most accurate? Austin and Hillock is too nice i. Why so many? And CVA has a large selection too. Looks like the Accura is the one they recommend. Hi Jim: Welcome to the club. Also consider there are differences between legal muzzleloaders for hunting during the rifle any legal weapon season and the muzzleloader only season.

Most other states will allow modern inline muzzleloaders, but be careful to make sure you understand all the rules. And those rules are changing as more people shoot muzzleloaders. So yes, go with 50 cal. Asking about advice on which is the best muzzleloader is a lot like asking about pickup trucks. You will get lots of opinions about the good, the bad and the ugly.

But like most pickups get you there and back home most days, most muzzleloaders will get the job done if you work at it. Why are they so many? Because we buy them. Some people always have to have the latest and greatest or all always looking for an excuse to buy another gun. As for accuracy, there are many claims about accuracy.

Start with the same combination someone with the exact gun uses, but be prepared to tweak it. Maybe you can find a gun store with a range so they can demonstrate loading, cleaning and accuracy for you. Personally, for elk, I use a grain Barnes T-EZ bullets with grains of Pyrodex powder in my older model TC Encore and can shoot one inch groups at yards if I clean after every shot.

Hello again, First off, Thank you for your advise and quick reply. I waited to reply till I made a decision. Well, I decided to go with the Knight Ultra-lite, western style with a scope. Now hear me out. I want to have it ready for Colorado and Idaho this year. So, it will be sighted in with the scope. Once I know my best bullets, loads and holds, then the scope will be removed and the iron sites installed. Then more practice on the range.

Now, in the future hunting in other states without all the hard rules of ID, and CO is possible, so the conversion kit for primers was also shipped. There is a local gun range and they should be able to provide a little help. CVA also has some good videos on their site as well. OK, so now to the loading. If anyone else is shooting the knight Ultralite and has any input on a good,. Oh, and were do we buy the power and bullets? That seems like a very stupid question but this muzzleloader is a whole new game.

I called around, a lot and there were some guns stores that sell large quantities of guns, but did not have any muzzle loaders. One gun store did not know what a muzzleloader was. I am excited to get started. Best, Jim. Congrats on your purchase. I know you will enjoy shooting and hunting with a muzzleloader. But I do get a lot of attention when I take the muzzleloader to the range, even from very experienced shooters.

There are lots of shooters that have never seen one. I have plenty of time to talk to them because I spend so much time cleaning. Remember the that killed thousands of buffalo was a. Obviously if the gun shoots well, step up the powder so it will shoot flatter and hit harder.

Continue increasing the powder up to grains until the accuracy falls off or your shoulder falls off. Swab the barrel often. I usually shoot twice at two different targets between cleanings. Try to reload as fast a possible keep safety first!

Start this only after you are comfortable at loading the gun. Take all the advice you can get, but I warn you, most of the advice I got when I was learning to shoot a muzzleloader was bad. Well, good luck and let me know when you bag your first elk or mule deer. Well, the adventure continues! The Knight Ultralight arrived, then I need a lot more stuff as you can imagine.

Finally, went to the range and fired only Pyrex ffg. Do some guys use a hammer or what to get those down the barrel? Then I tried the Hornady bullets. They fit at home but not on the range. I tried to force it down the barrel. That is when I needed my bullet puller.

Glad that accessory was purchased. So finally I started shooting No Excuses gr bullets and was in heaven. So, after several rounds, I thought I should clean the barrel. The ram rod went down ok but did not want to come back. So I pulled and pulled. Then the brass end came off! So I took the BP out and pushed it out. My fiberglass range rod was not good enough so I bought a nice brass one now.

Its now time to get serious. So, I was starting out with all lead bullets since Colorado would award me a tag, right? But as strange as that one is, I now have an Arizona tag. Its for rifle but I may need to use or want to use my muzzleloader now. After reviewing their web page it seems they do not have any special ML restrictions. So, the plan is to use shotgun primers, and likely Blackhorn powder. OK, the big question now is, what is the most accurate bullet, Powerbelt or sabot etc?

I can try various loads to find the best one. And is there a good source for them? Try cleaning them off and lubing them again. Tight is good, but so tight you are not sure if the bullet has seated against the powder is not good. Or at least makes you question if it may not be seated. As for your most accurate bullet, that will depend on your gun and you will have to find that combination.

I like the fact that there is no lead in the meat and they have proven to have great expansion. One more question. You mention cleaning between every shot or every two shots. Anyway, are you saying to remove the breach plug for every shot?

Or just push patches down the muzzle and pull them back out until clean? Removing the BP for every shot seems like a lot of work. Yes Jim, when working up a load or when sighting in, I shoot one clean barrel and breech plug round at one target and then reload as fast as possible practicing for a fast re-load is important and shoot the dirty barrel load at a 2nd target. Try this yourself and see which group you like best. It is a lot of work, but think about it this way.

Anything that can affect combustion and pressure will affect bullet velocity. Try just swabbing your barrel, then remove the breech plug and look at it. Does it matter if the the flash hole is partially blocked? Also, by taking the time to clean the breech plug, the barrel has cooled off again, so I am basically testing clean, cold barrel shots and second shots just like real hunting situations.

By the time it is time to hunt, I know exactly what my rifle and load will do. You are Welcome. I should have added, that I know exactly what my rifle and load will do… But still up to me to get it done. With open sights I get inch groups at yards.

Consistency equals accuracy. After you find the round that shoots well than a strict regimen between rounds is necessary for smaller groups. I carry two breech plugs on me for this reason. I use a small breech plug cleaning pin up to 6 shots than I completely change out my plug. I finish each cleaning with a very very small amount of bore butter.

I tap the barrel after loading the powder to displace and seat the powder consistently on the breech plug. I also use shot shell primers. Great article! No one muzzleloader is the same and if you can decrease the variables than you will decrease your group sizes.

Hi, having a problem, bought a 50 cal. Having trouble sighting it in at 25 yards, Can not remember if you drop the rear sight will that rise the impact on the target or will it drop it? Also what would be the grains of powder, and the best projectile to use to get best accuracy?

I am using 50 cal. Hi Greg: I have to visualize it this way. See Diagram showing rear sight adjustment effect on bullet path here. As for the amount of powder and projectile that will be the most accurate… You will have to test various options. And each gun will be more or less accurate depending upon the bullet powder combination you use. Try a conical bullet with 25 — 45 grains of powder do not exceed the maximum load and see which works best for you. Let me know how it goes.

Thank you for getting back to me. I was right, I raised the rear sight and it seemed to hit lower. I run a cleaning patch down the barrel, after each shot, is that enough to keep the accuracy? Any information on that? Greg: If you raised the rear sight, you should have raised the point of impact, not lower it.

Everything effects accuracy and consistency is the challenge in muzzleloading. It is difficult to get the exact same measurement of powder, same clean and lube conditions of barrel, same compaction of the load and consistent spark and pressure to the powder from the primer or whatever is used as the spark source. Running a cleaning patch down the barrel after each shot will result in more accuracy than not. When shooting, set up two targets fire clean barrel shots and one and dirty barrel shots at the other.

See what you think. So when you were talking to Joe about his impact you told him to clean his breech plug in between every shot. I have a TC Encore and was wondering if I need to remove it and clean it after every shot. Also what do you suggest for cleaning solvents and method for cleaning the barrel between each shot?

Thanks Eric. Eric: When I am shooting my muzzleloader at the range for accuracy, I clean the barrel after every other shot. One clean barrel shot at one target, then one dirty barrel shot at a 2nd target re-load and shoot just like any second shot while hunting. Since I have to remove the breech plug to clean the barrel anyway, I take a few minutes to clean the breech plug too.

One pass with the bore snake and the barrel is clean and dry. I could have sold 5 or 6 bore snakes at the range while I was sighting-in for the muzzleloader deer season. Then I lube the barrel with a clean patch with bore butter. Then remove excess bore butter with a dry patch. As for the breech plug… after soaking, the threads and recessed face clean easily with an old toothbrush. Use a dental pick to clean the fire hole. Do this last and make sure you can see light through the hole.

At first it will be tight, but continue to insert and wipe off until it is clean it will spin freely. Dry the threads with a paper towel or clean patch and lube the threads with the patch that just lubed the barrel.

Compare your clean barrel shots and dirty barrel shots to see what you think about a clean barrel and accuracy. Is it necessary to clean the breech plug after every shot? Probably not. But why not clean it if you have to pull it anyway. Good luck but count on skill. I disagree with you think seasoning the barrel is a joke. I bought a brand new Remington ml back in upgraded to primer and tried sighting gun in 3 group shots cleaning between each shot.

I could not group anything closer than 8 inches at 50 yards. I bought I cleaned every ten or so shots with a brass brush but I think the patches I fired though the barrel kept it pretty clean. When done I gave it a thorough cleaning.

I went back out next day and to my disbelief, I was now shooting inch groups with exact same bullets and powder as before cleaning after each set of three shots. Rick that was the best description of someone claiming to have seasoned a barrel I have ever read. The reason I have considered seasoning a muzzleloader barrel to be non-sense was because there is almost no info about how to season a barrel and what is actually happening to the metal as a result.

I even read instructions for baking a barrel in the oven, just like seasoning a black pan. But our muzzleloader barrels are not made of cast iron. Most barrels are made of Chrome Moly steel or Stainless Steel type How much polymerized oil is expected to remain on the surface after the barrel is fired? You would think they would discuss it if it were an important thing.

This is accomplished by the initial cleaning, followed by shooting approximately ten 10 consecutive rounds preferably lead balls or conicals and repeating the cleaning steps and again shooting ten 10 to twenty 20 rounds and again cleaning. The group sizes achieved by this process will decrease as more shooting, followed by cleaning and lubing of your bore, is done. But is this really seasoning the metal? Are we really talking about conditioning or lubricating the metal? Or are we smoothing out reamer marks left in the throat of a barrel or in barrels that are not finish-lapped?

Especially since you did not use oil and simply brushed the barrel with a copper brush. I suggest by firing lead balls through your rifle, you polished the throat, not that you seasoned the barrel. There is still much talk on the forums about seasoning a barrel with bore butter and other type oils, but not much talk about doing this with a hot barrel, which would seem necessary to season it. Carlo, there are no stupid questions except the ones people are afraid to ask.

If you read my article, you know that I do not think highly of the Powerbelt bullets, so I will ask you this: With all the choices of muzzleloader bullets available today, why is that the bullet you want to use? But to answer your question, No. You must use the same bullet and type and amount of powder. And for accuracy, you must also have the barrel cleaned and lubed exactly the same. I have a CVA side hammer left to me when my uncle passed away.

I installed a Mag Spark to shoot so I can use primers. I shoot grains of Pyrodex select with a Hornady. I can barely shoot 8 inch groups at 30 yards. Any suggestions? Eric: I have more experience with modern in-line muzzleloaders. But something is definitely amiss if your groups are that big at 30 yards. One thing I have learned is that every rifle is different and your biggest challenge will be to find a combination of type and amount powder, bullet and patches.

And it makes a huge difference if the barrel is fouled or clean. I would be very interested to see if your rifle shoots any better if it were shot from a shooting vice or even from solid shooting rests. It is hard to shoot tight groups with open sites and with the delayed firing. Try shooting the round balls with 70, 80 and 90 grains of powder to see if group size improves. Try using larger patches if the balls are easily pushed down the barrel. Also try conical bullets to see if they shoot any better.

Anyway, good luck. Eric: grains for round ball is probably to much, the patch needs to be well lubed also. Round balls do not like too much twist because too much twist combined with too much powder tears the patch and therefore breaks the seal so parts of the bare lead ball will touch the barrel. Did you look for your patches on the ground to check them out?.

A twist of 1 in 48 is enough for round ball. If gun is 1 in 32 or less, you should use conical bullets or maxi balls. The first shot was 2 inches left of center, second shot was the same. Could the scope be bad? That is the definition of frustration… You have to isolate all possible causes to find the problem.

Shoot 3 shots to get a group. If no real group, then you might consider putting the gun if a shooting vice or shooting rest. I would also clean the barrel and breech plug after every shot. Actually, I shoot a 2nd shot at a different target before cleaning. That is how we have to shoot a 2nd shot at a deer or elk, so that is how I practice. Cleaning and drying and lubricating between shots guarantees the barrel is consistent between shots and also cools the barrel some so there is not a huge difference between the first cold barrel shot and the following shots.

The clean up is minimal and the consistency is awesome. I cannot properly set the flint no matter what I try. The spring looks hand made but pretty well. I think the timing is out. Hang it on the wall and forget it? I have ammo patches powder and all the other doodads. Now its a matter of principle I will shoot this gun. Sorry Jeff: Your issues are beyond my expertise. I will post this in hope someone can give you advice. Good Luck. I have 3 muzzleloaders and have hunted deer with them since Vermont allowed a special season.

I too had to Learn by myself as no one here had shot black powder. I read a lot and shot all kinds of loads and have killed many deer with them. All you have said is true. I swab well after each round with a spit patch and at yards rival my center fire accuracy. OK that said my guns are all scoped as I don,t see as well old.

It likes 80 gr of Pyrodex RS. Just an update on my dilemma, I learned how to work on simple locks, adjusted the mainspring, came up with a devise that secures two strike anywhere matches in place of the flint. This is probably the most fun have ever had with a gun and its very accurate! Fires every time. Another good example of human ingenuity. A friend once told me that years ago, he ran into two young men while squirrel hunting in Tennessee.

They were hunting with an old single shot It took one boy to aim the gun and another to strike it with a hammer to fire it. Photo 1 Photo 2. I am having difficulty finding anyone who can help me diagnose my problem. I own the TC triumph bone collector. The confidence to have a follow up shot in the woods is important to me. If I sit down, load my grains of pyrodex pellets and my g powerbelt aerotip bullets and shoot my first shot out of a clean barrel, I will hit the center of the middle of the bullseye perfectly.

This is consistent and repeatable every time with a clean barrel. If I practice as I hunt and load after the first shot, do not run any patch, fire the second shot, I consistently hit 6. If I shoot a third, I consistently hit 12 inches above the first shot. I have tried the Barnes loads but have inconsistency in seating depth after the first shot. I am ready to just buy a new gun. Have you ever encountered this symptom?

Thank you for your consideration. First thing I see and everyone that knows me or has read my book will agree that I never miss a chance to say this … I never got consistent shots from Powerbelts. If you can, more power to you. There was an issue with a loose hinge pin and perhaps the forearm interfering with the movement of the barrel of a center-fire TC Encore See comments by Alan Rockwood here.

But the TC Triumph does not have inter-changeable barrels, so no chance a hinge pin could loosen. If you are loading the same amount and kind of powder, we know the initial energy should be the same or very close. In fact, it would be impossible to put enough powder in the load to deliberately make the gun shoot that high.

Then 12 inches high? My only thought is that the barrel must be flexing as it heats up and it must be flexing in one direction. A response to your comment about Barnes Bullets not having consistent seating depth. No bullet should have a consistent seating depth between a 1st clean barrel shot and a 2nd or 3rd dirty barrel shot.

If the bullet fits snugly in the barrel, it will push all that crud down on top of the powder or pellets. Also be advised that pellets can be crushed. That too will lead to inconsistent seating and inconsistent powder burn and energy. I am also curious to know what TC says about your situation. They may want you to send it in, but something needs to be done so you can trust this gun to shoot where you want it.

Scope on Gun, or iron sights.? I had a TC shooting way low. Sabots were not seating fully. Barrel needs to be cleaned well each time, and use butter bore so the sabot will indeed seat. Are you using a Barnes seating tool?

Thank you!! I had not thought about barrel flex. I recall many times after reloading a second shot and hours going by in a tree etc. I will have to put some thought into it. I feel silly but had not yet thought to ask TC. I will today. I will be at the range this weekend and will work on loads to see if I can find a variation.

I will note, one of my close friends has the old TC Omega and his 4th and 5th shot with the Barnes bullet fit in the exact same hole as shots Believe it or not this adds to my frustration… Thank you again for your consideration! Loose powder only no pellets Shotshell primer Tiny tiny bit of bore butter on sabot.

I would also try TC Shockwave bullets. Wow, I have not seen this. I would expect the barrel to be fouled i the powder zone. The sabot seating well I would call into question. However since you are shooting high, maybe the barrel is warping a bit as mentioned. I cannot in my TC. Can you — or have you dropped back to 80 Grains of powder on shot 2.?

I can get 1 inch groups from my older TC Encore. But another thought. Just aim 6 inches low or whatever the ballistics would predict for the distance. I would prefer to do that than to use less powder. The 2nd shot is not likely to be closer than the first. I feel comfortable hunting because I know where the bullet is going to hit. I have only once had to follow up, and believe it or not the deer was at on the first shot and 50 on the second lucky me.

Just because I know my gun does not make it right. If a change of bullet works I will be thrilled. My guess is a new TC is in my future. And Best of luck to you Sir… This is a good forum for sharing info and helping solve issues. At the Gun shop today, There are so many choices of Sabots. He said it is much cleaner than White Hots or Pyrodex. Try different powders and sabots and switch powders and if your gun likes the combination… I have not tried many different powders and use only Barnes bullets since my gun shoots them consistently and I like they are all Copper.

Hi there, I have a. All shots were taken from a lead sled. Any thoughts as to why this may be or what I should do? Very puzzling Andy. If you had a terrible habit of jerking the trigger, that could explain the results you are seeing, but not if the rifle is anchored in a Lead Sled. Andy— Just curious, are all of the mounting screws tight to proper torque. Could the scope have been nudged a micron or ?

FYI—recent learning that does work. Blackhorn is a terrific powder to use in place of White Hots, and Black Jacks, and other powder pellets. Blackhorn is a tiny crystal of very clean burning black power. You can shoot repetitive shots with just some bore butter.

The rifling in my barrel was always trashed after 1 shot. Also you will only need 80 grains as there are no binders like pellets. Upon pulling the breach plug on a Bone Collector I was happy to see rifling all the way to the breach. Very clean shooting.. Blackhorn powder is great, but check your local regs as it might be illegal in your state or specific hunting units.

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But, over the last ten years, we have […] Read More. This was the title of a Housing Wire article I read last week. This time of year, buyers have less competition, more price reductions and greater inventory, according to realtor. Out of […] Read More. Rates have moved steadily lower over the last week.

And, as per usual, nobody saw it coming. Major uncertainty in both political and economic arenas tends to push rates down. Waning Consumer Confidence. Traders watch these surveys closely and react sharply […] Read More. They were all convinced that the price of the exotic at the time tulip bulbs would increase forever, not taking into account how easy it was to reproduce them and how the ridiculously high prices were […] Read More.

Is this really happening? The market has definitely softened. As […] Read More. Many people mistakenly believe housing prices have surged out of control in recent years and may have peaked. The reality is that in most areas they are only back to the levels they hit previously in Nice shootin' too, by the way. I can't tell by the photos; is that a pistol or a rifle? The front sight on a lot of guns is the issue. My knights are the same too big! I wish there was a Lyman Globe sight for them.

I am glad you like the load. You bring up the exact thoughts in the back of my head. I wonder myself if I will be able to think about where I should hold, but at close distances it should not matter - to a degree that is. That is not the apeture that came with it, or the one I will be using. The other one I have is a whole lot bigger.

I'll try to get a picture of it soon. My thoughts are to carry the small one with me if the need arises - that I have a shot at some distance. If that is the case, then I will have time to think about the shot, I hope I totaly understand what your saying though. I usually do not think about the shots I take when deer hunting. At that range, unless I am holding real high, it should be a kill shot regardless of the non-center hold.

But I am not going to just leave that up to chance so I will be doing some major practicing. Thank you very much for bringing it up. I'll just have to train myself the other way. I don't see why I can't make something instinctive if practiced enough.

But I will for sure not count on it being instinctive. Maybe a card on the side of my stock that reminds me, along with the trajectory once proven beyond just a few times out. One example that comes to mind is a pistol I've been working with. All my guns with iron sights have been shot with 6 o'clock holds except for the peeps of course. When I started shooting my new pistol, a , I realized the sights were setup for a center hold.

It took a while, but now I truly do instinctively shoot it with a center hold. I think the key will be practice, and only shooting with this gun till the hunt. I'm training my body in every other way, might as well do it this way also. It it is a rifle. Optima V2 Again, thanks. You brought up a very valuable point I need to really take to heart. Actually, I think I could make it happen with getting a Marbles dovetail front and fitting the Lyman to it.

But then the height would be an issue. I also thought about a o'clock hold but I have the side locks that are dead on. If I went to switch I would screw something up. Yea, that is true. I had thought about that and was going to get someone at Brownells to measure everything for me, but then decided it might not be worth the effort. It will serve dual purpose, one to remind me to use the 6 o'clock hold, and also for a solid reference point to hold on instead of trying to use the entire surface area of the red dot.

Also, having such a big front sight might be an advantage in this situation. My other peep setups have smaller front sights, at least half the size of this one, so I do not think that it will mess me up to use this one different. I was thinking about it this morning and remembering this past weekends shooting.

I remember constantly moving the sight away from the target to see it, then moving it back on top, then away again to make sure, etc. Then, when I switched over to the new hold, I simply cut the target in half with the top edge of the sight. We shall see. But I am really glad it was brought up because its not something I want to just leave to chance when I head out there. Well, fast forward to the other day. Got yard range cleared out at the house so I decided to get some shooting in.

Only 3 weeks left till Colorado. Started at yards. I thought I had already gotten the sights moved over, but I quickly realized that I was shooting too much to the right. Once moved over I had this three shot group. Target was a lot smaller, but seeing how I am doing a 6oclock hold I could see enough to have a good aiming spot.

Shot this three shot group. Thought, why not, move her on down to yard. Shot this Down right below the target. Problem at this distance is the target is completely covered by my front post. What I mean is, the trajectory of the boolit puts it almost dead center of the front sight. So I have to completely cover the 12" gong and its hard to see exactly where I am holding. Nice thing about this is however, that at yards on an elk unless its a very tiny one all I have to do is center the front sight on its chest.

At yards my front sight covers 24" roughly, and that's the depth of an elk so I've been told and seen pictures of. Regardless, I doubt I will be shooting them this distance, and if I attempted to, I would have to have a good rest. Nice to know I could if I needed to though. I want to be prepared for as much as possible. Just to make sure, and I am sure I'll be shooting more before I go, I shot last night at just First shot from a fresh barrel was dead center, about where the upper shot is on that last picture I did not take any more pictures last night.

Next two were just under the target having trouble judging where to hold again , but then the fourth was on the plate. What amazes me about this load is the minimal horizontal spread. I really want to get my scope back on to see just what kind of groups I could hold with this combo. Ron, your the man. This load makes me almost think about only shooting my muzzleloader regardless if its rifle season. I just might too once I get a scope on. Really quite unbelievable.

I know guys shoot good with muzzleloaders like this quite a bit, but they usually are shooting grain projectiles. I know if I see one inside of my range I'll be headed home with some good meat! Yep, that's them. Just cant beat how they shoot. I did try lubed over the powder wads, but am back to just dry felt ones. I wish I could find an easy to adjust peep also for this gun.

I have no doubt that with one, and a smaller front sight, I could go yards with very acceptable accuracy. Regardless, the peep helps tremendously and having used them on other guns of mine, its hard to not put one on any gun I plan on using iron sights with. I don't think I will ever shoot at an animal past yards with this setup though.

According to my calculator at yards its still giving just a tad over ftlbs of energy though. I know it hits HARD at yards also, there is nothing left but a flat disk that weighs maybe 25grains. I need to weigh it. Two disks I found on the ground at the yard plate It does show just how stable this boolit is though I think. The holes I have punched in paper with it at this range show no sign of being unstable. Well, its been a few weeks since my trip.

I have had enough time to heal from the number of times I smacked myself in the head for not heading this one piece of advice that was given after I decided to switch up the way I shoot a peep. Opening morning I shot right over the top of an Elk's back because it was a lot closer than I had anticipated it to be, along with having my peep setup for the 6oclock hold.

In the end though, it was a good thing because it turned out to be a spike I had shot at Lots of lessons learned for the first time elk hunting The gun is the single point of connection between you and your target, ANY failure in that connection is going to result in a failure to connect.

BULOVIC MINING BITCOINS

Your decision-making capabilities are not what they normally are. Public loves to bet the favorites, and they love to be the overs. I guess it makes sense: Who wants to root for an under? We want to see points! And favorites are favored for a reason: They are subjectively, and often objectively, the better team.

So what to do? Maybe you have a lean one way or another, if so, go for it, have fun. Two offensive-minded teams. Well, what happens if the Hawks are keeping up their end of the bargain — and then some — and put up 65 first half points. But the Nets are struggling. Kevin Durant banged knees with Kyrie Irving, and the squad has only managed 40 first half points. Both teams might be playing reserves in the fourth quarter, and the final comes in somewhere in the range.

Insert sad trombone. Of course, this cuts both ways. There goes the under. Steam is ethereal in nature, right? Just run and bet the Colts, right? Not so fast. If this causes your brain to swim a bit, no worries: But always keep in mind the sharps and syndicates are betting numbers, not teams.

Sports betting for most is a hobby or entertainment that tests your knowledge — as opposed to a reliable source of income. Many beginners believe basic or even advanced knowledge of sports alone will make them a successful sports bettor. Being an expert in any one sport is certainly going to help, and can be a real benefit when looking at player prop bets, but remember they play the game because anything can — and often will — happen.

To be clear: The best sports bettors are losing about 45 percent of the time. So when you lose — and you will lose — you have to remember that you are not alone. Just simply recognizing that the top guns in this space are losing, figure, nine out of every 20 times should give you peace of mind, and help you avoid the dreaded tilt. In our best Yoda voice, then: Tilting leads to chasing, chasing leads to losing.

So what do we know? We know sports betting is fun, and following the guidelines above will certainly go a long way into making sure it remains fun. Jeff is a veteran journalist, working as a columnist for The Trentonian newspaper in Trenton, NJ for a number of years. He's also an avid sports bettor and DFS player. He can be reached at jedelstein bettercollective. Gambling problem? About Contact. This site contains commercial content.

January 24, Share on Facebook Share on Twitter. There is a local gun range and they should be able to provide a little help. CVA also has some good videos on their site as well. OK, so now to the loading. If anyone else is shooting the knight Ultralite and has any input on a good,. Oh, and were do we buy the power and bullets? That seems like a very stupid question but this muzzleloader is a whole new game. I called around, a lot and there were some guns stores that sell large quantities of guns, but did not have any muzzle loaders.

One gun store did not know what a muzzleloader was. I am excited to get started. Best, Jim. Congrats on your purchase. I know you will enjoy shooting and hunting with a muzzleloader. But I do get a lot of attention when I take the muzzleloader to the range, even from very experienced shooters.

There are lots of shooters that have never seen one. I have plenty of time to talk to them because I spend so much time cleaning. Remember the that killed thousands of buffalo was a. Obviously if the gun shoots well, step up the powder so it will shoot flatter and hit harder.

Continue increasing the powder up to grains until the accuracy falls off or your shoulder falls off. Swab the barrel often. I usually shoot twice at two different targets between cleanings. Try to reload as fast a possible keep safety first! Start this only after you are comfortable at loading the gun. Take all the advice you can get, but I warn you, most of the advice I got when I was learning to shoot a muzzleloader was bad.

Well, good luck and let me know when you bag your first elk or mule deer. Well, the adventure continues! The Knight Ultralight arrived, then I need a lot more stuff as you can imagine. Finally, went to the range and fired only Pyrex ffg. Do some guys use a hammer or what to get those down the barrel? Then I tried the Hornady bullets. They fit at home but not on the range. I tried to force it down the barrel. That is when I needed my bullet puller. Glad that accessory was purchased.

So finally I started shooting No Excuses gr bullets and was in heaven. So, after several rounds, I thought I should clean the barrel. The ram rod went down ok but did not want to come back. So I pulled and pulled. Then the brass end came off!

So I took the BP out and pushed it out. My fiberglass range rod was not good enough so I bought a nice brass one now. Its now time to get serious. So, I was starting out with all lead bullets since Colorado would award me a tag, right? But as strange as that one is, I now have an Arizona tag. Its for rifle but I may need to use or want to use my muzzleloader now. After reviewing their web page it seems they do not have any special ML restrictions.

So, the plan is to use shotgun primers, and likely Blackhorn powder. OK, the big question now is, what is the most accurate bullet, Powerbelt or sabot etc? I can try various loads to find the best one. And is there a good source for them? Try cleaning them off and lubing them again. Tight is good, but so tight you are not sure if the bullet has seated against the powder is not good.

Or at least makes you question if it may not be seated. As for your most accurate bullet, that will depend on your gun and you will have to find that combination. I like the fact that there is no lead in the meat and they have proven to have great expansion.

One more question. You mention cleaning between every shot or every two shots. Anyway, are you saying to remove the breach plug for every shot? Or just push patches down the muzzle and pull them back out until clean? Removing the BP for every shot seems like a lot of work. Yes Jim, when working up a load or when sighting in, I shoot one clean barrel and breech plug round at one target and then reload as fast as possible practicing for a fast re-load is important and shoot the dirty barrel load at a 2nd target.

Try this yourself and see which group you like best. It is a lot of work, but think about it this way. Anything that can affect combustion and pressure will affect bullet velocity. Try just swabbing your barrel, then remove the breech plug and look at it.

Does it matter if the the flash hole is partially blocked? Also, by taking the time to clean the breech plug, the barrel has cooled off again, so I am basically testing clean, cold barrel shots and second shots just like real hunting situations. By the time it is time to hunt, I know exactly what my rifle and load will do. You are Welcome.

I should have added, that I know exactly what my rifle and load will do… But still up to me to get it done. With open sights I get inch groups at yards. Consistency equals accuracy. After you find the round that shoots well than a strict regimen between rounds is necessary for smaller groups. I carry two breech plugs on me for this reason. I use a small breech plug cleaning pin up to 6 shots than I completely change out my plug.

I finish each cleaning with a very very small amount of bore butter. I tap the barrel after loading the powder to displace and seat the powder consistently on the breech plug. I also use shot shell primers. Great article! No one muzzleloader is the same and if you can decrease the variables than you will decrease your group sizes. Hi, having a problem, bought a 50 cal. Having trouble sighting it in at 25 yards, Can not remember if you drop the rear sight will that rise the impact on the target or will it drop it?

Also what would be the grains of powder, and the best projectile to use to get best accuracy? I am using 50 cal. Hi Greg: I have to visualize it this way. See Diagram showing rear sight adjustment effect on bullet path here. As for the amount of powder and projectile that will be the most accurate… You will have to test various options.

And each gun will be more or less accurate depending upon the bullet powder combination you use. Try a conical bullet with 25 — 45 grains of powder do not exceed the maximum load and see which works best for you. Let me know how it goes. Thank you for getting back to me. I was right, I raised the rear sight and it seemed to hit lower. I run a cleaning patch down the barrel, after each shot, is that enough to keep the accuracy? Any information on that? Greg: If you raised the rear sight, you should have raised the point of impact, not lower it.

Everything effects accuracy and consistency is the challenge in muzzleloading. It is difficult to get the exact same measurement of powder, same clean and lube conditions of barrel, same compaction of the load and consistent spark and pressure to the powder from the primer or whatever is used as the spark source. Running a cleaning patch down the barrel after each shot will result in more accuracy than not. When shooting, set up two targets fire clean barrel shots and one and dirty barrel shots at the other.

See what you think. So when you were talking to Joe about his impact you told him to clean his breech plug in between every shot. I have a TC Encore and was wondering if I need to remove it and clean it after every shot. Also what do you suggest for cleaning solvents and method for cleaning the barrel between each shot? Thanks Eric. Eric: When I am shooting my muzzleloader at the range for accuracy, I clean the barrel after every other shot. One clean barrel shot at one target, then one dirty barrel shot at a 2nd target re-load and shoot just like any second shot while hunting.

Since I have to remove the breech plug to clean the barrel anyway, I take a few minutes to clean the breech plug too. One pass with the bore snake and the barrel is clean and dry. I could have sold 5 or 6 bore snakes at the range while I was sighting-in for the muzzleloader deer season. Then I lube the barrel with a clean patch with bore butter.

Then remove excess bore butter with a dry patch. As for the breech plug… after soaking, the threads and recessed face clean easily with an old toothbrush. Use a dental pick to clean the fire hole. Do this last and make sure you can see light through the hole.

At first it will be tight, but continue to insert and wipe off until it is clean it will spin freely. Dry the threads with a paper towel or clean patch and lube the threads with the patch that just lubed the barrel. Compare your clean barrel shots and dirty barrel shots to see what you think about a clean barrel and accuracy.

Is it necessary to clean the breech plug after every shot? Probably not. But why not clean it if you have to pull it anyway. Good luck but count on skill. I disagree with you think seasoning the barrel is a joke. I bought a brand new Remington ml back in upgraded to primer and tried sighting gun in 3 group shots cleaning between each shot.

I could not group anything closer than 8 inches at 50 yards. I bought I cleaned every ten or so shots with a brass brush but I think the patches I fired though the barrel kept it pretty clean. When done I gave it a thorough cleaning. I went back out next day and to my disbelief, I was now shooting inch groups with exact same bullets and powder as before cleaning after each set of three shots.

Rick that was the best description of someone claiming to have seasoned a barrel I have ever read. The reason I have considered seasoning a muzzleloader barrel to be non-sense was because there is almost no info about how to season a barrel and what is actually happening to the metal as a result. I even read instructions for baking a barrel in the oven, just like seasoning a black pan. But our muzzleloader barrels are not made of cast iron. Most barrels are made of Chrome Moly steel or Stainless Steel type How much polymerized oil is expected to remain on the surface after the barrel is fired?

You would think they would discuss it if it were an important thing. This is accomplished by the initial cleaning, followed by shooting approximately ten 10 consecutive rounds preferably lead balls or conicals and repeating the cleaning steps and again shooting ten 10 to twenty 20 rounds and again cleaning.

The group sizes achieved by this process will decrease as more shooting, followed by cleaning and lubing of your bore, is done. But is this really seasoning the metal? Are we really talking about conditioning or lubricating the metal? Or are we smoothing out reamer marks left in the throat of a barrel or in barrels that are not finish-lapped? Especially since you did not use oil and simply brushed the barrel with a copper brush. I suggest by firing lead balls through your rifle, you polished the throat, not that you seasoned the barrel.

There is still much talk on the forums about seasoning a barrel with bore butter and other type oils, but not much talk about doing this with a hot barrel, which would seem necessary to season it. Carlo, there are no stupid questions except the ones people are afraid to ask. If you read my article, you know that I do not think highly of the Powerbelt bullets, so I will ask you this: With all the choices of muzzleloader bullets available today, why is that the bullet you want to use?

But to answer your question, No. You must use the same bullet and type and amount of powder. And for accuracy, you must also have the barrel cleaned and lubed exactly the same. I have a CVA side hammer left to me when my uncle passed away. I installed a Mag Spark to shoot so I can use primers. I shoot grains of Pyrodex select with a Hornady. I can barely shoot 8 inch groups at 30 yards. Any suggestions? Eric: I have more experience with modern in-line muzzleloaders.

But something is definitely amiss if your groups are that big at 30 yards. One thing I have learned is that every rifle is different and your biggest challenge will be to find a combination of type and amount powder, bullet and patches. And it makes a huge difference if the barrel is fouled or clean.

I would be very interested to see if your rifle shoots any better if it were shot from a shooting vice or even from solid shooting rests. It is hard to shoot tight groups with open sites and with the delayed firing. Try shooting the round balls with 70, 80 and 90 grains of powder to see if group size improves. Try using larger patches if the balls are easily pushed down the barrel. Also try conical bullets to see if they shoot any better.

Anyway, good luck. Eric: grains for round ball is probably to much, the patch needs to be well lubed also. Round balls do not like too much twist because too much twist combined with too much powder tears the patch and therefore breaks the seal so parts of the bare lead ball will touch the barrel. Did you look for your patches on the ground to check them out?. A twist of 1 in 48 is enough for round ball. If gun is 1 in 32 or less, you should use conical bullets or maxi balls. The first shot was 2 inches left of center, second shot was the same.

Could the scope be bad? That is the definition of frustration… You have to isolate all possible causes to find the problem. Shoot 3 shots to get a group. If no real group, then you might consider putting the gun if a shooting vice or shooting rest. I would also clean the barrel and breech plug after every shot.

Actually, I shoot a 2nd shot at a different target before cleaning. That is how we have to shoot a 2nd shot at a deer or elk, so that is how I practice. Cleaning and drying and lubricating between shots guarantees the barrel is consistent between shots and also cools the barrel some so there is not a huge difference between the first cold barrel shot and the following shots. The clean up is minimal and the consistency is awesome. I cannot properly set the flint no matter what I try.

The spring looks hand made but pretty well. I think the timing is out. Hang it on the wall and forget it? I have ammo patches powder and all the other doodads. Now its a matter of principle I will shoot this gun. Sorry Jeff: Your issues are beyond my expertise. I will post this in hope someone can give you advice. Good Luck. I have 3 muzzleloaders and have hunted deer with them since Vermont allowed a special season. I too had to Learn by myself as no one here had shot black powder.

I read a lot and shot all kinds of loads and have killed many deer with them. All you have said is true. I swab well after each round with a spit patch and at yards rival my center fire accuracy. OK that said my guns are all scoped as I don,t see as well old.

It likes 80 gr of Pyrodex RS. Just an update on my dilemma, I learned how to work on simple locks, adjusted the mainspring, came up with a devise that secures two strike anywhere matches in place of the flint. This is probably the most fun have ever had with a gun and its very accurate! Fires every time. Another good example of human ingenuity.

A friend once told me that years ago, he ran into two young men while squirrel hunting in Tennessee. They were hunting with an old single shot It took one boy to aim the gun and another to strike it with a hammer to fire it. Photo 1 Photo 2. I am having difficulty finding anyone who can help me diagnose my problem. I own the TC triumph bone collector. The confidence to have a follow up shot in the woods is important to me.

If I sit down, load my grains of pyrodex pellets and my g powerbelt aerotip bullets and shoot my first shot out of a clean barrel, I will hit the center of the middle of the bullseye perfectly. This is consistent and repeatable every time with a clean barrel.

If I practice as I hunt and load after the first shot, do not run any patch, fire the second shot, I consistently hit 6. If I shoot a third, I consistently hit 12 inches above the first shot. I have tried the Barnes loads but have inconsistency in seating depth after the first shot.

I am ready to just buy a new gun. Have you ever encountered this symptom? Thank you for your consideration. First thing I see and everyone that knows me or has read my book will agree that I never miss a chance to say this … I never got consistent shots from Powerbelts. If you can, more power to you. There was an issue with a loose hinge pin and perhaps the forearm interfering with the movement of the barrel of a center-fire TC Encore See comments by Alan Rockwood here.

But the TC Triumph does not have inter-changeable barrels, so no chance a hinge pin could loosen. If you are loading the same amount and kind of powder, we know the initial energy should be the same or very close. In fact, it would be impossible to put enough powder in the load to deliberately make the gun shoot that high. Then 12 inches high? My only thought is that the barrel must be flexing as it heats up and it must be flexing in one direction.

A response to your comment about Barnes Bullets not having consistent seating depth. No bullet should have a consistent seating depth between a 1st clean barrel shot and a 2nd or 3rd dirty barrel shot. If the bullet fits snugly in the barrel, it will push all that crud down on top of the powder or pellets. Also be advised that pellets can be crushed.

That too will lead to inconsistent seating and inconsistent powder burn and energy. I am also curious to know what TC says about your situation. They may want you to send it in, but something needs to be done so you can trust this gun to shoot where you want it. Scope on Gun, or iron sights.? I had a TC shooting way low. Sabots were not seating fully. Barrel needs to be cleaned well each time, and use butter bore so the sabot will indeed seat.

Are you using a Barnes seating tool? Thank you!! I had not thought about barrel flex. I recall many times after reloading a second shot and hours going by in a tree etc. I will have to put some thought into it.

I feel silly but had not yet thought to ask TC. I will today. I will be at the range this weekend and will work on loads to see if I can find a variation. I will note, one of my close friends has the old TC Omega and his 4th and 5th shot with the Barnes bullet fit in the exact same hole as shots Believe it or not this adds to my frustration… Thank you again for your consideration!

Loose powder only no pellets Shotshell primer Tiny tiny bit of bore butter on sabot. I would also try TC Shockwave bullets. Wow, I have not seen this. I would expect the barrel to be fouled i the powder zone. The sabot seating well I would call into question. However since you are shooting high, maybe the barrel is warping a bit as mentioned. I cannot in my TC. Can you — or have you dropped back to 80 Grains of powder on shot 2.? I can get 1 inch groups from my older TC Encore.

But another thought. Just aim 6 inches low or whatever the ballistics would predict for the distance. I would prefer to do that than to use less powder. The 2nd shot is not likely to be closer than the first. I feel comfortable hunting because I know where the bullet is going to hit.

I have only once had to follow up, and believe it or not the deer was at on the first shot and 50 on the second lucky me. Just because I know my gun does not make it right. If a change of bullet works I will be thrilled. My guess is a new TC is in my future. And Best of luck to you Sir… This is a good forum for sharing info and helping solve issues.

At the Gun shop today, There are so many choices of Sabots. He said it is much cleaner than White Hots or Pyrodex. Try different powders and sabots and switch powders and if your gun likes the combination… I have not tried many different powders and use only Barnes bullets since my gun shoots them consistently and I like they are all Copper.

Hi there, I have a. All shots were taken from a lead sled. Any thoughts as to why this may be or what I should do? Very puzzling Andy. If you had a terrible habit of jerking the trigger, that could explain the results you are seeing, but not if the rifle is anchored in a Lead Sled.

Andy— Just curious, are all of the mounting screws tight to proper torque. Could the scope have been nudged a micron or ? FYI—recent learning that does work. Blackhorn is a terrific powder to use in place of White Hots, and Black Jacks, and other powder pellets. Blackhorn is a tiny crystal of very clean burning black power. You can shoot repetitive shots with just some bore butter. The rifling in my barrel was always trashed after 1 shot.

Also you will only need 80 grains as there are no binders like pellets. Upon pulling the breach plug on a Bone Collector I was happy to see rifling all the way to the breach. Very clean shooting.. Blackhorn powder is great, but check your local regs as it might be illegal in your state or specific hunting units.

And as I always say, let that barrel cool down. All good info. Hopefully Andy can zero in with iron sites. Then remount scope. Hi guys. Sorry for not following up sooner. I burned up lots of powder and tried several bullets. At yards the Hornady SST grouped the best. Shot 2 was just barely higher than shot 1.

The groups were also very consistent. I did not even need to adjust my scope after the change. I feel much more comfortable walking into the woods. Thank you for helping me see that powerbelts were part of the problem. I fell in love with my TC all over again. Scott Menke… That is a possibility of the scope screws not being tight… however, I cleaned the ML and I took a picture of the target where the grouping was and headed out hunting.

Two does came out into the food plot and fed to about 70 yards. I aimed for the ML to do what it had been on the target and squeezed the trigger. The doe piled up within 75 yards of being hit and on inspection I hit practically where I was aiming with a double lung shot. I am obviously not complaining with that outcome; however I like to know exactly where my firearm is hitting.

I will check the torque on the scope mounts and try again. Thanks for the opinion Jack. I appreciate the fact that you are a traditionalist. But I beg to differ… I can hit something. I would love to see someone that could really shoot a traditional muzzleloader. No doubt a lost skill and art. Dang it the humidity sucks here in the mountains of western Va I finally got my.

I was gettin fairly accurate with it despite the few shots I was able to get off. By that I mean I had it down to the barn door on the broad side of the barn. I shoot in the North south skirmish association. I shoot a 58 with 45 grains of black powder. I am sorry for being so bold just not a fan of in lines. People pull not squeezing the trigger, and the time of the trigger squeeze to the bullet leaving the gun after the gun is fired they take it off the shoulder let it stay on for 5 seconds longer, you will see a different results.

This might sound silly but I have a couple of bug-a-salt guns. Plastic guns that shoot table salt, they are fantastic my wife and I sit on the porch and murder insects by the hundred. Just gotta get used to taking the pan flash full in the face as I shoot left handed and keep the rifle on target at the same time.

I have recently switched from Pyrodex to Blackhorn powder. BH recommends no cleaning between shots for best accuracy. Ive got the 3 shot group under control as I shot my first ever cloverleaf with a muzzleloader. My Problem is after shooting at the range last week, I left the gun fouled to simulate a hunting situation and fired one shot yesterday and one today as if I were in a hunting scenario.

Any advice? Thanks, JW. Also remember if you are simulating a hunting situation 2nd shot from a dirty barrel the barrel and the crud will be warm. That is a slightly different situation from leaving the crud in the barrel and then shooting a day later with a cold barrel.

In addition, one shot does not a group make… And we will never be able to shoot a group of cold barrel shots. When I practice, I always take 2 shots before cleaning. First shot clean barrel at one target, then 2nd shot dirty barrel at 2nd target. It is very instructive. Then you can adjust your powder for the 2nd shot as well. I get better control from powder Pyrodex on the 1st shot, but use pellets Pyrodex or for faster re-loading for the 2nd shot.

You need to test yourself with a clean, cold barrel at various distances, angles and wind directions to simulate hunting shots. If you miss, reload, do 10 pushups, run away from the target 10 more yards and shoot again. Yes, we need 1 inch groups at the range constant distance, steady platform, no pressure, etc. What does that translate to in the field? I love reading peoples comments… Inlines to me are not true muzzle-loaders.

Try shooting a true muzzle-loader, iron sights, free stand style in hunting or competitive competition matches. Do waste your money on inlines. Hi Phil, You obviously have an opinion and you are welcome to it. I even admit I first added a non-magnifying scope so I could see; old eyes and all, then after my state made it legal to use magnifying scope, I put one on it because making clean kills is more important to me than authenticity.

I applaud those of you that keep old school traditions alive, especially if you can shoot them accurately at distances greater than 50 yards. Unfortunately, the only guys I have ever seen at the range shooting traditional muzzleloaders can not shoot 6 inch groups at 50 yards. I got into shooting muzzleloader by pure accident.

I was looking for a new elk rifle and looked in the local online adds guns were sold that way back then. When I went to look at the rifle, the guy said it also had a 50 cal ML barrel. I bought it and fell in love with the inline. Would I love shooting a real ml like yours? Probably, but that it now what I found first. I have enough toys and hobbies to keep me busy, so I probably will not start a new one. I see you tried to put links to two muzzleloader shooting associations; North South Skirmish Association and the American Civil War Shooting Association in your comment.

There was an error, but I fixed it and included them for you here. I appreciate all the good advice. I used a traditional for a couple of years but was bummed when shooting out a load and had a misfire. It is pretty frustrating after working so hard to get a good shot at an elk and then hearing the poof of a misfire. I went to an inline to avoid the misfires. I learned a lot by using your two target system. My second shot never does as well as a clean barrel. I had to go to a peep sight because of these old eyes and I live in Colorado.

I loved carrying the traditional but having that removable breach plug changes things for the better. Any experience with the Cooper Muzzleloader? I am trying to get mine dialed in using Parker bullets and Blackhorn powder. No experience, but they sure look like nice rifles… Did you get wood stock or composite? I found some chatter on the internet about shooting and working up a load for a Cooper Muzzleloader.

Claimed it only took 5 shots to sight-in. They had problems with wind and found the forearm was touching the barrel, so the gun was sent back to Cooper. But he already had his gun up for sale because he only bought it because his guide was booked up for rifle season. Let me know what you find out since there is so little info on the internet. Good luck shooting and on your hunt. I got a slight problem I can not figure out. Bought a tradions trappers pistol. The set trigger pulls really hard, tried to set the screw, but did not seam to change any thing.

What can I do? First thing would be to break it down and make sure the spring is working at all… here is a link to download a diagram of the pistol. I have been trying to fined out the answer to a question, that no one can answer. How long can you leave black powder in a gun that was clean, and you load it, to hunt, with out doing damage. Hope you can give me a answer.

Sorry for taking so long to respond, been busy trying to put meat in the freezer. Black powder and substitutes un-fired do not appear to be very corrosive. They are corrosive after firing due to the water that is absorbed. I have left my gun loaded for an entire 9 day hunt season without any noticeable effect on the barrel my barrel is stainless; modern in-line …. Many folks suggest firing the gun at the end of everyday so the powder can not absorb moisture from the air.

Assuming the humidity effects the powder causing it to have less power and causing your ball or bullet to shoot slower and low.

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